Shwedagon

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Shwe is the Burmese word for gold and Dagon means three hills

This most holy of Burmese pagodas has relics from 3 Buddha's and 8 hairs from the last Buddha enshrined within.  It stands on a platform on Singuttare Hill, one of Myanmar's most holy places.  Nobody knows how old it is but it was well established by the 11th century.    The hill was levelled off in the 15th century when Queen Shinsawpu donated her weight in gold to embellish the stupa with gold leaf.  Her successor contributed four times his weight and the faithful have been plating and gilding it ever since

            Southern Entrance Stairs                                                          

             

Guardian Chinthe and Nats Abound 

The main platform can be reach via four stairways.   At this entrance we could have used the elevator but opted to climb the stairs.  The Western entrance has a flight of escalators designed for foreign visitors.   The climb is well worth the effort as the covered walkways are crowded with vendors selling flowers, both real and beautifully fashioned paper offerings, incense, ceremonial umbrellas, Buddha images, monks robes, prayer beads and, tourist souvenirs.  Beside the covered walkway is a parallel flight of steps also flanked with vendors but these are geared to a more serious monastic clientele

Towards the top of the 104 steps we paid our $5 entrance and nominal camera fees, placed our proof of payment sticker prominently on our shirts and stepped from the cool dark entrance onto the glorious glittering platform.  In the words of Somerset Maugham

"The Shwe Dagon rose superb, glistening with its gold, like a sudden hope in the dark night of the soul of which the mystics write"

It seems to be impossible to see Shwedagon without some scaffolding.   I thought it was bad in 2002 but in 2005 they surpassed themselves

Gilding around the main stupa '02               

Painting a Planetary Post '02

 

                   Major renovation '05

The main stupa was completely covered in bamboo scaffolding, it was being stripped, the old metal plates being replaced with new and refurbish ones.  Eventually Shewdagon would be Shwe again.    The work was carried out by inmates from Insein Prison

                        A Study in Tranquility

 Pristine new Buddha Images                     

               

Worshiping at a Planetary Post

           Even a Buddha Appreciates a Facelift

The Hti

The tiered hti  (not looking it's best in 2005) is encrusted with 1100 diamonds totalling 278 carats and 1383 other precious stones.  At the very top is the diamond orb, 4351 diamonds weighing 1800 carats  surmounted by a single 78 carat diamond  

A gentleman told us to find him after dark and he would show us the diamond orb on top of the hti.   He took us to a very precise spot on the platform, manoeuvred us into exactly the right position and sure enough bright and white the diamond glittered for us.  An inch in any direction and it disappeared.  Not content he marched us to another spot where we were in just the right position to see it again but this time a brilliant green and finally where it shone a glorious red

            How many monks in Myanmar? The Lonely Planet knows                          

                        

Buddha and Monk Sitting Under a Bodhi Tree

 Twilight approaches, bringing the ritual sweeping of the platform.  Women volunteers earn merit and keep the area clean for visitors feet

"At last we reached the great terrace.  All about shrines and pagodas were jumbled pellmell with the confusion with which trees grow in the jungle.  They have been built without design or symmetry but in the darkness their gold and marble faintly gleaming , they had a fantastic richness.  And then emerging from among them like a great ship surrounded by lighters, rose dim, severe and splendid the ShweDagonSomerset Maugham

                        
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