Istanbul

Greece and Turkey Map | Home Page 2 of 4 | Page Up | Page Down

Hagia Sophia - Wisdom of God Basilica

Emperor Justinian hoped he had built an indestructible replacement on the site of two previous Greek Orthodox Basilicas of the same name, which were destroyed by fire.   His magnificent version of Hagia Sophia was built of special porous bricks imported from Greece and featured a near impossible unsupported dome which came tumbling down when only 11 years later it was badly damaged by an earthquake 

The Basilica stands atop a seismic fault and it's dome remains at risk  

Hagia Sophia built as an Eastern Orthodox Basilica , became briefly a Roman Catholic Cathedral, reverted to Eastern Orthodox.  After the fall of Constantinople it became a mosque,  Christian symbols were removed and four minarets added to the corners, the cross on the dome became a crescent.  With the fall of the Ottoman Empire it became a museum.  Many Emperors and Sultans have been involved in buttressing and strengthening the foundations. The addition of four minarets for the muezzin call to prayer serendipitously also reinforced the basilica with the 'impossible' dome 

In 1934 the agnostic 'Father of the Nation' Kemal Ataturk declared the mosque a museum and it has functioned as such every since.   However in 2019 President  Erdogan, responding to devout nationalists declared that in future, "Hagia Sophia will no longer be memorialized as a museum.  Hagia Sophia will be commemorated as a  mosque"

The first Muslim prayers in the former Hagia Sophia  museum took place on July 24th  2020

It remains Turkeys most popular tourist site

 

In 2001 the massive basilica was undergoing much needed restoration.

 
 

In spite of the passages in Exodus forbidding the use of 'graven images'  the walls of the upper gallery, where women went to pray were covered with spectacular mosaics depicting Christ, the saints and various Emperors and their wives.   The Koran leaves no doubt on the question of idolatry which is why, when the Basilica became a mosque in the 15th century, the murals were plastered over and the altar  pulpit replaced by the Muslim equivalents.  The huge roundels, some 30 feet in diameter were added in the mid 19th century.  Calligraphy is raised to an art form in Islam and these are the work of a master.   The words are the names of the Prophet Mohamed and his grandsons.  In Hagia Sophia Christian images now survive side by side with those of Islam

Christ Flanked by Emperor Constantine and Empress Zoe

The larger scale figure of the enthroned Christ dominates the mural,  reinforcing the difference in stature between the divine and the merely human.  Byzantine Emperors always aligned themselves closely with the church

Byzantine Mosaic

By the 4th century BC glass mosaics were being used extensively and Byzantium was the center for the craft.  The glittering gold backgrounds of the Aya Sofia mosaics were obtained by sandwiching gold leaf between tiny pieces of glass to prevent tarnishing.  Other colours were obtained by metallic oxides.  The tessarae were hand set in mortar.  Slight irregularities cause light to reflect at different angle
The Empress Zoe.   978-1050 

To ensure the stability of the Empire,  she married for the first time at the age of 50.  Six years later Romanus lll was poisoned, presumably by Zoe.  She married her lover on the evening of the day his body was found.  Zoe and Michael lV ruled jointly until his death.  Until her third marriage she ruled with her sister Theodora at which time it became a triumvirate.  After the death of Zoe in 1050, Theodora and Constantine ruled together.  He died in 1055,Theodora in 1066

Constantine lX  Monomachus 

Close examination reveals that the head and inscription which reads 'Constantine by the Divine Christ, Faithful King of the Roman's, has been changed.  Empress Zoe's first husband Emperor Romanus lll contributed to the repair of the basilica, hence the purse.  His was the first head, followed by Michael lV husband number 2,  and finally Constantine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christ The Pantocrator

Of the remaining images the most beautiful and most famous is the early 14th century, Deesis Mosaic in the South gallery.  This is a detail of the head of Christ the Pantocrator from the Deesis Mosaic. 

Only the head and torso remain.  In Byzantine art, the Deesis is a traditional representation of Christ enthroned, flanked by Mary and St. John the Baptist, acting as supplicants, appealing to Christ for mercy on behalf of the beholder on Judgment Day

 

 

 

Topkapi Palace Harem

The Topkapi is a collection of pavilions and gardens built around 4 courtyards, similar in concept to the tented cities from which the nomadic Ottomans came.   Building began at Seraglio Point, where the Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara meet, soon after the conquest of Constantinople in 1459.  From then until 1853 when it was abandoned in favour of the European style Dolmabahce Palace, it remained a work in progress

Entry is through the Imperial Gate to the First Courtyard where one finds  the  Byzantine church of Aya Eirene which pre-dates the Topkapi.  Once construction of the palace began it could no longer be used as a church so was turned into an armoury, which is why it never became a mosque.   It is now used as a concert hall

The ticket offices are by the church and we were there as they opened.  Once we had our tickets and photography permit we went straight across to the Harem and bought tickets for the first tour of the day.   You can only enter as part of a conducted tour and tickets sell out early in the day.  Having secured a ticket we were free to tour other parts of the palace and return to the harem at the appointed time.  As Aya Eirene is only open to concertgoers we headed for the kitchen block
 

The massive kitchens were designed by Sinan the architect who designed Suleymaniye Mosque.   From here they fed 4,000-5,000 people every day and 10,000 on special occasions.   Nowadays it houses an impressive collection of Chinese and Japanese porcelain and its domes and chimneys provide an industrial vibe to the palace roofscape

The Harem

Is not the stuff of Hollywood legend but rather the private apartments  of the Sultan and his family, and up to 1000 concubines!  The odds therefore of attracting the attention of the Sultan or his mother were not good.  The women of the Harem were slaves from all corners of the Ottoman Empire.  Most never rose beyond the service of their more favoured peers.  Entry is via the tradesmen's entrance passing through the quarters of the Black Eunuch guards who also waited on the women of the Harem.  An interloper would have to evade some 200 of them to reach this area.  Concubines who bore the Sultan a son become wives.   The apartments of the First Wife are not nearly as grand as those of the Favourite Concubines.  All are insignificant when compared to those of his mother   The apartments of the favourites are above the portico
     Courtyard of the Concubines

 Courtyard of The Valide Sultan

                                 Apartment of the Valide Sultan

As the most powerful woman in the Harem the Valide Sultan had the largest and most sumptuous rooms.  It was she who arranged the introduction of the concubines to her son.   To ensure there were no chance encounters he always wore slippers adorned  with silver or gold which tinkled to announce his presence and allow the women time to hide 

Principle private chamber of the Sultan Murad 111  Designed by the architect Sinan in the 16th century.  The large square room with its high-domed ceiling  features a copper canopied fireplace, a baldachin and the fountain pictured below.  The walls are decorated with beautiful tiles.  An inscription in jali-thuluth Arabic script on blue and white tile, runs around the room.   The windows are double glazed against  the Istanbul winter.  This is the oldest and finest surviving room in the harem

              Has Oda - Salon of Murad III 

 

Here,  where the coral tiled fountain served to obscure the ladies conversation and prevent eavesdropping in this palace of intrigue, the Sultan received the ladies of the Harem.  Tired of gossip, he could retire to his library with the ivory inlaid shutters

           Library of Ahmet the First
  Windows and ceiling -Twin Princes Apartment

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 Salon of Sultan Murat lll

And finally from the people who brought us Turkish towels, the most sumptuous bathrooms,  of which this is one of many at the Topkapi

 
 

Disappointingly, the premier attraction, The Treasury was closed for refurbishment, which they neglected to tell us until after we had paid the entrance and camera fees

Redemption came when we discovered the stable block as we were leaving.  It housed a wonderful temporary exhibition of Ottoman Empire tents
Greece and Turkey Map | Home Page 2 of 4 | Page Up | Page Down