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Hintha Gon Paya

Although the Burmese are generally devout Buddhists there is a strong indigenous religion which predates Buddhism, involving the worship of Nats or spirits.  They believe everything in the universe is controlled by Nats.  People, places, trees, rocks are all associated with particular spirits, and some of them are not nice.  They guard and protect but can also be mischievous and vengeful.  Some have the power to make people do their bidding and they must be placated with offerings.  A Nat Kadaw is a spirit medium who officiates at Nat Pwe's and channels the spirits through trances    

Spectators sat behind the balustrade above and behind the musicians and players.  Others were below amongst the participants and we were encouraged to join them.   Mg Zaw Moe Hein took the opportunity to swat up on our Lonely Planet Guide to Myanmar 

With the amplified music rattling my rib cage I knew I wouldn't be able to stay too long

The Hneh or Burmese oboe, adds a mournful sound to the cacophony

 

We heard this destination long before we saw it.  I hoped  it might mean that we were to experience a Nat Pwe, a performance aimed at calling up the spirits of the Nats.   They like loud music so a full compliment of heavily amplified drums gongs and xylophones are called upon to lure them in

The symbolism was lost on us, but Kyat, Cigarettes, food, alcohol and weapons played a significant role

The costumes are wonderful, coming and going.  Nat Kadaws are considered to transcend traditional gender boundaries and the Nat Pwe has become a refuge for transgender Burmese, somewhere they can gain acceptance in conservative Myanmar 
The only thing we knew for sure is that we were fortunate to witness a Nat Pwe   
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